matali crasset designed three types of pendants for Le Buisson all of which have a certain contemporary concept: energy and movement. The Mobilité series shows futuristic figurines, coated in a combination of white gold and a helmet whose peak is in enamel, which is moved by the energy contained in the stone set in it. This becomes the diver’s bottle of gas, the wheel of a bicycle or a wheelbarrow. A far-off homage to Duchamp’s Roue de bicyclette, the Mobilité pendants invites those who wear one to play with the mobile stone. The Equaliseur and Torch play somewhat on light effects. In this case, it does not mean sunlight but electric light treated with subtle irony. The equaliser’s potentiometers, symbol of the 1980’s high- tech, becomes a sort of abstract stain-glass window bringing to mind the minimal paintings of an Ellsworth Kelly. The Torch setting forms the framework of the object which allows the profile to be seen, and not the front which is normal, the amethyst or the diamond. So that a slightly enigmatic radiance runs around the pendant.
The pieces of jewellery are more than symbols of wealth or rare and precious objects. Since prehistoric times, they have had a symbolic force. For a long time, it was the material that gave them this strength: the purity of the gold, a solar and divine metal, the benign virtue of the gems or the resistance of horn and ivory passed on by contact with the wearer of the set. Then the jewel slowly lost its tactile and magic effect to become more ostentatious, and more and more a very visible sign of vanity.
The Le Buisson jewellery is going back to jewellery’s origins. They do not imitate the shapes of old amulets, they draw on contemporary imagination for another way of reflecting on the timeless functions of the set of jewels. Objects to be touched as much as looked at, they are today’s charms. They combine humour and simplicity, formal invention and perfection in creation. Luxurious, they remain simple and elegant. They are intelligent and joyful pie- ces of jewellery which can be worn without affectation. They show a varied range of designs and moods, for men and for women. The only things they have in common are the origina- lity of the design and the perfect quality of the production.
- Pierre Mendelssohn